The suburb in downtown Johannesburg is known for its food influences by places such as India, Pakistan and Jordan
Fordsburg in central Johannesburg — you either love it or you hate it. For some people, navigating the traffic and terrible drivers, trash and beggars is a little too much.
Others, people like me, who grew up in the surrounding areas and frequented Fordsburg often, savour its culinary delight.
There’s a range of cuisines from all over the world. The sweet and the savoury, the chilli hot and the banal. There’s something for everyone, no matter what your taste is.
Let me take you on a culinary tour of Fordsburg, starting with the Oriental Plaza. Once a teeming spot with clothes, fabrics, gifts, jewellery, food and everything you needed under one roof, the plaza is now filled with leather jackets and material shops for items like clothing. Don’t get me wrong, there are myriad other shops and things to purchase but it’s lost the charm it had 10 to 15 years ago.
But back to the food. The only place worth trying in the plaza is World of Samoosas. Prepare to have your mind blown. You have to try the coconut samoosa. You read correctly, this place has something called the coconut samoosa. I know it sounds like an abomination but trust me, once you take a bite of the coconut samoosa dipped in the red chutney with a sprinkle of lemon, you’ll wonder where it has been all your life.
Other offerings include the cheese samoosas with either corn, salami or onion, and all are really magical. I know a lot of people love the potato one. But potato in a samoosa is not really my jam. Then again, I have an unpopular opinion on potatoes so I’d rather not say any more.
A little further up the road are two of Fordsburg’s best restaurants side by side: Dosa Hut, with its South Indian cuisine, and Amman restaurant, a Jordanian-inspired joint.
Let’s start with Dosa Hut. Consistently one of the best Indian food restaurants in Johannesburg, Dosa Hut has food that caters for all types of eaters. For starters, my favourite options are the eggplant finger chips and then a helping of the pani puri, which coats the pallet for a perfect meal. The pani puri is a deep-fried pastry shell hollowed out and filled with onion, potato and chickpeas in the middle. It comes with a sauce and a tamarind-style chutney.
For mains, the options are endless, from chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian. Each curry has a harmonious spice blend. It leaves you with a little runny nose from the hint of chilli but is delicious.
The naans, rotis, rice and breads are all perfect vessels for the curries. My favourites are the prawn curry, butter chicken (boring, I know) and the lamb maliperrallan. I’ve never heard of this lamb dish before but it is wonderful, tender lamb, spicy curry not as hot as a vindaloo and a smashing sauce. It is a real sleep inducer.
The cheese dosa is brilliant, cheese oozing out of a dosa with three sauces is mouth-watering to say the least.
There’s an array of lassis — and chais for the tea lovers — that complement the dishes. I recommend the South Indian special tea and the mango lassi.
A lassi from Dosa Hut (left) and Dosa Hut’s pani puri (right)
Now for its neighbour. Amman specialises in chicken. I’m not overly fond of chicken but this one, I could eat daily.
Nick Hamman, a radio personality, has listed it as one of South Africa’s best in his food tours and it is easy to see why. Perfectly cooked, with a basting sauce an accompanying carrot raita, garlic sauce and peri sauce, this puts Nando’s to shame.
The secret, for me at least, is in the onions lying underneath the chicken. It soaks up the basting sauce and adds a touch of sweetness to the dish. Served with thin bread and some crispy chips, this signature dish is possibly the best Fordsburg has to offer. Many people recommend Syrian Rose but I don’t think it comes close.
To wash down this dish, order the avocado, honey and date drink. It’s more of a smoothie but it hits the spot.
You’ll obviously need some dessert following these great meals. Be sure to try the Kulfi or Burfee ice cream sticks a few doors away. A dessert with Pakistani origins, I’m told by one of the workers in the store, these ice creams have made their way to Fordsburg and are milky, creamy and rich. If you have space, give them a shot.
Don’t forget to pick up a sugar cane juice to take home from The Juice Den on your way out. My favourite is to mix it with granadilla juice for a mix of sweet and sour.
Now for the not-so-good. This may be an unpopular opinion but hear me out. The Turkish food in Fordsburg leaves one wanting. There is a lack of spice in the kebabs, the wraps and the meals at the various eateries.
Considering I took a bottle of SoulFire hot sauce to Turkey when I visited, it’s no surprise I feel this way. The food is fresh but overall it lacks flavour for me.
I’m also not overly fond of The Biryani House in Fordsburg where I found the food to be too oily for my liking. It was, however, incredibly cheap.
I’m also not a big fan of stalwart restaurants such as Bismillah, I feel it’s lost that sparkle that made it famous 10 years ago. It misses the flavour places like Dosa Hut has. Maybe I’m still traumatised by trying Al Mehran a few years back when a cockroach emerged from my salad.
A walk through Fordsburg can be seen as a major sensory overload. The smells, the people and the litter can all be a bit much. But if you can get past all of that, there are some cracking meals to try.
It is a true amalgamation of cultures and people and the food is testament to these various influences. I highly recommend a culinary tour to Fordsburg.